Photo 212/3(23)

Genre: Architectural Photography

General view of the west gopura of the Ramalingeshvara Temple at Rameswaram. Lyon's 'Notes to accompany a series of photographs prepared to illustrate the ancient architecture of Southern India' (Marion and Co., London, 1870), edited by James Fergusson, gives the following description of his journey to the site and of this photograph: 'Ramisseram. Trichindoor is the most southern temple visited by me, and consequently we must now retrace our steps to the northward; and following the coast, proceed at once to the far-famed temple of Ramisseram. The road from Trichindoor to Pamben through Tuticorin, follows the coast, and is one of the most dreary and disagreeable to be found in India. In some places the sand is so deep that it is with difficulty the bullocks can drag themselves along; and in others, coming on to the black cotton soil, which having been cut up by the carts in the wet season, becomes hard and baked in the sun, the jolting is so dreadful, that the only wonder is how any springs can stand it. There is a bungalow at Tuticorin, but between that and Paumben, tents must be used. If any traveller can by any means manage, he should try and arrange at Tuticorin, to go from thence to Paumben by water. It is easily accomplished in two days, anchoring the first night inside the islands which here line the coast. A reference to the maps will show the village of Paumben is on the island of the same name. As seen from the sea, it is exceedingly pretty, being so completely enveloped in trees, that it is hard to imagine there is a house in the place. There are several bungalows here which strangers can occupy; the one generally used is pleasantly situated facing the straits, and not twenty yards from the sea. The temple of Ramisseram is only eight miles from this place, on the other side of the island. Unfortunately the road has been in some past time paved the whole way with large flag-stones on account of the sand, but it has now been allowed to fall into such a bad state of repair, that it is quite impossible to use it, and consequently as the carts have to be dragged through the heavy sand, plenty of time should be allowed to enable the baggage to get forward. There is an old temple on the beach at Ramisseram which is used by strangers, so that tents will not be required. Ponies are abundant, and can be had for hire at Paumben; so that leaving that place at about three in the afternoon, the traveller will arive at Ramisseram about six. The road is line on each side, at very short distances apart, with porches, built probably for the use of the thousands of pilgrims who annually resort hither, but all are now fast going to decay. About two miles from Ramisseram, on the right of the road, is a tomb forty feet long, and there are two others at Ramisseram exactly similar, and one at a place called Davipatam, on the shore of the mainland, opposite Paumben. They are all exactly alike, and the story goes that they are the resting-places of four giants, who came from some place unknown on a pilgrimage to Ramisseram. One died and was buried before leaving the mainland, a second within two miles of Ramisseram, and the other two reached the temple, and died there and were buried. It would be curious to open one of the tombs and see the true reason why they should be of such an immense length. Passing several tanks on the approach to the village, the main street is entered. The houses are very low and small, with a few palm trees scattered about, while immediately facing the street, is situated this celebrated pagoda. At first sight, it is impossible not to feel greatly disappointed with its appearance, as it is so widely renowned throughout the whole of India, while it is certain it is not to be compared in external magnificence with the temples of Madura and Tanjore. 353 - shows the Pyramidal Tower over the entrance on the west side. The Brahmins declare it to be 100 feet high, and the gateway itself 40 feet, but in reality it can be little more than half that height. It is, however, built entirely of hewn stone, which is not the case with any of those described above, and is singularly simple in its details. There is absolutely no figure-sculpture belonging to the original design, the two figures in the first storey being modern additions. The road, on arriving opposite the pyramidal tower at the west entrance of the pagoda, divides and passes round the outer wall of the temple on both sides, uniting again opposite its east entrance. Following either of these roads, we become aware for the first time of the immense extent of this temple, the distance from the west to the east entrance being nearly one-third of a mile; still continuing to follow the road, we in a few minutes arrive at the old porch, which has been enclosed, and forms the only abode of such few European visitors as ever visit this distant spot. It is on the very edge of the sea at high tide, and at its very door the Brahmins bring the wearied pilgrims to bathe on the morning after their arrival. It is most curious to watch in the early morn the extraordinary antics they are made to perform in going through the ceremony. The building can be made comfortable enough, and as long as there is a breeze from the sea, is quite habitable, but should that die away the heat becomes quite unbearable. From the door, the long low sandbar, called 'Adam's Bridge,' can be traced, which is supposed to have formed the connection between Ceylon and the mainland in past ages. According to the Brahmins, the whole distance of seven miles may still be accomplished on foot, if lucky enough to avoid the quicksands which here abound; certain it is that the Brahmins and pilgrims proceed daily on foot at low water to a temple built apparently in the sea, but in truth on a rock in the middle of the sand, at a distance of two miles from the island, and those who have performed their devotions while the tide is high, return to the land when it again recedes.' Another copy at Photo 1000 (3002).